It was the grail jacket from SPECTRE. And I’m not just taking about affordable alternatives. The orginal Dior Homme jacket James Bond wore to meet Mr White in his remote Austrian cabin was limited to just twenty pieces. Made from 100% cashmere in a unique shade of dusty navy blue and retailing for close to $6000, the design was a mash-up of a double rider biker jacket, G-1 bomber and French high fashion. And Bond looked cool as hell wearing it in one of the film’s best scenes.
The quest to first identify the jacket is an interesting story. I think it was user steviekim on the AJB007 Bond fan forum that first called Dior as the designer, with agreement coming from TheExit148 and final confirmation from rstv. Given the rarity of the jacket, it was practically a miracle that one or two originals found their way into the hands of members of the Bond fan community. David Zaritsky of the The Bond Experience gives a great overview of the Dior jacket in this video. And Peter Brooker of From Tailors With Love currently has one in his possession and shares all the details in this article.
In the film, Daniel Craig wore the Dior Homme jacket with the light grey N.Peal cashmere turtleneck (alternatives for that in this post), a pair of Neil Barrett puppy-tooth trousers and black quilted leather Agnelle gloves. For more on the complete look, check out these posts from Bond Suits and BAMF Style.
Features Wanted for the James Bond SPECTRE Mr White Jacket
- Bomber jacket length
- Navy blue wool or wool blend (although cashmere would be sweet!)
- Asymmetrical front zip in a brighter silver color
- Button closure interior storm placket
- Zip cuffs
- No rib knitting at waist
- Waist pockets with flaps and dual snap closure buttons
- Shirt style collar; shearling collars should be removable for a screen accurate look.
Given that this is a jacket with such specific design details, the odds of finding an exact match are almost impossible unless you go with a repro. The zip cuffs are a challenge. But that placket configuration and the asymmetrical zipper are pretty much unique to Dior. Even the brighter tone of navy blue is tough to match! However, we’ve still done our best to find solid alternatives that capture the spirit of the Mr. White jacket, even if they are missing some of the key features.
Definitely a highlight from the creative mind of Daniel Love, owner of ROYALE Filmwear. Simply put, if you want to get as screen accurate as possible, this is the one to get. And even if you don’t care about looking like Bond, it’s still an outstanding piece of outerwear. Made from a luxurious wool and cashmere blend it will keep you plenty warm when the weather drops. You can read my full review of an earlier version here for all the details, including notes on the sizing and fit. Now the sad news: ROYALE Filmwear is already sold out of sizes small, medium and large. If you’re on the slimmer or larger size, grab an XS, XL or XXL before those are gone! If you’re size is already gone, maybe Daniel will consider another run if he hears enough demand?
Magnoli Clothiers Altaussee Jacket: $285.00
And the option from another fan favorite repro maker, Indy Magnoli. The shell is a wool blend and it also does an admirable job of capturing the original’s design details. This one is made-to-measure, which means each jacket is made on a per order basis to the customer’s specific measurements. There’s also 5 month waiting period for delivery. So if you’re a “plan ahead” kind of guy, it’s a great alternative if you know you’ll need a jacket for next winter.
Best Option for the James Bond SPECTRE Mr White Jacket
Seattle-based Filson is about as far from Parisian haute couture of Dior as you can get. Founded in 1897, the heritage brand is famous for their rugged and practical outerwear, which can literally last decades. And I’m pretty sure they couldn’t care less about “fashion”. But their Seattle Work Jacket certainly checks a lot of the right “Features Wanted” boxes as an option. They’ve used a mid-weight 100% wool for the shell and only given it a half liner across the back. So it’s not going to keep you as warm as the original. Knowing Filson, I’d also expect a boxier, more utilitarian cut. However, you are going to get an excellent jacket that will look great over a cable knit turtleneck! You can find sizes XS to XXXL available on their website.
Jack Wills Colindale Wool Blend Bomber Jacket in Navy: on sale for $67.50/£45.00
We’re getting a reverse of the Dior placket (buttons outside, zipper inside). And although it has open (but non-zippered) cuffs, it does have a partial knit hem. On the plus side, the Calindale is normally priced at $225.00, so it’s a heck of a deal. The 59% wool, 41% synthetic blend material isn’t so bad either. House of Fraser has sizes XS to medium and XXL in stock.
A dead simple zip front blouson, made from a felted polyester fabric. Not much to talk about really. But the price is decent and it could work as a Dior alternative if you prefer a more minimalist look. Sizes medium to XXXL are available on Amazon UK.
Vince Camuto Wool Bomber Jacket in Navy: on sale for $199.50
A big jump in price. But now we’re starting to get closer to the style we want. Open cuffs (but no zips, unfortunately), open hem, clean and simple flapped patch pockets and that faux shearling hood is removeable. It’s also another option that on deep discount, with a regular price of $475.00. And sizes small to XXL are available. You can find the deal at Macy’s and use the code FRIEND at checkout.
Circolo 1901 Wool Zip Jacket: $405.00/£369.00
Have to say, I’m liking the “Italian tailoring meets workwear” vibe of this one. With it’s shirt style button cuffs, tab adjusters at the waist, button closure pocket flaps, it’s not as sleek looking as the Dior. But the 100% wool shell sounds nice. And that larger collar would look great popped. You can find this one on sale at Farfetch. However, they are starting to run real low on inventory.
Mr P. Boiled Wool Jacket in Blue: $500.00/£345.00
It’s more a shirt jacket with big pockets than a bomber. But Mr Porter’s Mr P. line does deliver high end luxury at (slightly) more affordable prices. In this case, they’ve gone with a 100% wool outer and delivered what looks to be a great fit. And I can’t be the only looking at that model photo and wondering, “Hmm, what was the inspiration for that outfit?” You’ll find sizes XS to XXL on their website.
The Investment Piece
Obviously, the ribbed knit cuffs and hem aren’t exactly what we’re looking for. But Paris-based Sandro has it’s own French design aesthetic that makes this one a worthy contender. The outer is a 70% wool, 20% polyamide, 10% cashmere blend and since they’ve used 100% genuine shearling for the detachable collar, you may want to just keep it on. The Aviator is available directly from the company’s website, but Selfridges, which I’ve linked to above, has more sizes in stock. Farfetch is also worth checking out if you can’t the size you need at one of the other stores.
Know of a great alternative for the James Bond SPECTRE Mr White jacket that we missed? We’d love to hear about it, so share away in the comments! And remember to check us out on Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest for even more style icon inspriation!